Comments on: SPF Boosters: Hidden chemical sunscreens in “mineral sunscreens” https://labmuffin.com/100-mineral-sunscreens-using-unregulated-chemical-filters/ The science of beauty, explained simply Mon, 23 Oct 2023 02:45:09 +0000 hourly 1 By: J https://labmuffin.com/100-mineral-sunscreens-using-unregulated-chemical-filters/#comment-287823 Wed, 04 Oct 2023 07:13:48 +0000 https://labmuffin.com/?p=12552#comment-287823 Thank you for this information! I’m wondering if you could share more about the claims that you need to use mineral sunscreens when pregnant. I’m considering trying to conceive soon and honestly can’t imagine going back to mineral after discovering so many cosmetically elegant Japanese sunscreens that use chemical filters…

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By: amanda https://labmuffin.com/100-mineral-sunscreens-using-unregulated-chemical-filters/#comment-286269 Sun, 10 Sep 2023 06:50:01 +0000 https://labmuffin.com/?p=12552#comment-286269 I have been checking this more assiduously and yes, so many out there adding butyloctyl salicylate but claiming to be a mineral sunscreen. Generally less than 20% zinc oxide (if there’s also no titanium dioxide) almost always means there’s significant butyloctyl salicylate included.

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By: Guest https://labmuffin.com/100-mineral-sunscreens-using-unregulated-chemical-filters/#comment-283789 Fri, 18 Aug 2023 20:02:57 +0000 https://labmuffin.com/?p=12552#comment-283789 This makes a so much sense! I’ve tried lots of mineral sunscreens in the last few years, and I was shocked how many of them irritated my skin and eyes. I double checked the ingredients of the worst offenders and, sure enough, all of them have butoctyl salicylate in them.

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By: Anna https://labmuffin.com/100-mineral-sunscreens-using-unregulated-chemical-filters/#comment-254041 Sat, 07 Jan 2023 05:42:15 +0000 https://labmuffin.com/?p=12552#comment-254041 Thank you Michelle! I’m so glad to know my bs detector was working as it should when I saw butyloctyl salicylate start popping up in multiple mineral sunscreens. It is really disappointing that companies would resort to this though.

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By: Jessica https://labmuffin.com/100-mineral-sunscreens-using-unregulated-chemical-filters/#comment-249240 Tue, 13 Dec 2022 16:14:22 +0000 https://labmuffin.com/?p=12552#comment-249240 Thank you, Michelle, for this awesome article! I discovered in the past year that I’m actually allergic to chemical sunscreen filters. I’m not sure which one(s) specifically, but I know that when I wear them and then go out in the sun, I get allergic reactions that include hives on my face (that kinda look like cystic pimples except for how quickly they form) and swollen, burning, watery eyes that no eye drops or allergy meds will fix, and then the eye pain and discomfort will eventually lead to debilitating migraines. It took forever for me to figure out that chemical sunscreens were the cause of it because the reaction doesn’t happen immediately and rather once there’s been sun exposure, so now I only use mineral sunscreens. Since I’m not positive which chemical filter causes this, I’m really disappointed that some of these 100% mineral sunscreens are using deceptive tactics- the new Good Molecules sunscreen specifically comes to mind.

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By: Michelle https://labmuffin.com/100-mineral-sunscreens-using-unregulated-chemical-filters/#comment-245604 Wed, 16 Nov 2022 09:42:09 +0000 https://labmuffin.com/?p=12552#comment-245604 In reply to Jeannie.

How interesting! I wasn’t aware of the Colorescience change, glad to hear about that – although I did recently see an Australian article where a dermatologist recommended it as a sunscreen, with the SPF 50+ rating which is concerning.

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By: Michelle https://labmuffin.com/100-mineral-sunscreens-using-unregulated-chemical-filters/#comment-245602 Wed, 16 Nov 2022 09:25:40 +0000 https://labmuffin.com/?p=12552#comment-245602 In reply to Works in government.

Yes, that’s the excuse that the companies seem to be using – except as I wrote in the post: “within the regulations of the regions I looked at, if you’re using an ingredient in a sunscreen to absorb UV and protect the skin from UV, you are meant to register it.” In other words, the regulations are meant to be interpreted so that ingredients are defined by function and not by legal category, so this loophole doesn’t exist. The German and Swiss government agencies have said this too, and around the world the general legal trend has been towards purposive interpretations of laws and away from literal interpretations.

It’s the same reason why brands can’t claim “preservative-free” in the EU just because they’re using a preservative that isn’t defined as a preservative in Annex V: https://ec.europa.eu/docsroom/documents/24847 Some sellers of “SPF boosters” specifically say in their marketing info that they don’t contribute to the tested SPF when used at a certain percentage, which also aligns with this interpretation.

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By: Works in government https://labmuffin.com/100-mineral-sunscreens-using-unregulated-chemical-filters/#comment-244973 Thu, 10 Nov 2022 23:54:19 +0000 https://labmuffin.com/?p=12552#comment-244973 I think the commenter is pointing out that depending on how chemical components are classified (or “defined” by the regulation which is typical government language), that definition is the driving factor behind allowable percentages. In this case, if BOS is defined as a “solvent”, then limits on how much can be added is based the limits for the solvent category. It doesn’t matter how similar in structure it is to OS or what other function it may have, as long as it’s not defined as a UV filter, then it’s not subject to the same rules. So yes, it may very well be lawful for BOS to be added at such high percentages, because the initial allowable limits are different.

Sorry if I’m explaining something you already know – government regulations are a beast on to itself.

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By: Jeannie https://labmuffin.com/100-mineral-sunscreens-using-unregulated-chemical-filters/#comment-243302 Sat, 29 Oct 2022 18:29:01 +0000 https://labmuffin.com/?p=12552#comment-243302 Hey Michelle,

I love a good rant, and your rant was spot on and insightful and interesting!

Now, I’m not one to automatically jump to the defence of Australia’s regulatory processes effectiveness in general – but I guess with the whole ozone hole thing being located where it is, the kind of problems you have described has been noticed. Australia has therefore had some of the strictest requirements for SPF claims. Such as a maximum rating of 50+ because to claim more than that give a skewed impression that a higher number provides a proportionate practical benefit even though that is negligable in a practical setting.)

In the last few years, Australia has caught up with you on the problems of your articulate rant, and made changes.

For example, those Colorscience mineral powders were formally approved here to be labelled as SPF 50+, but this is no longer the case. They can now only be sold here WITHOUT claiming to provide any protective factor from UV. Because in reality, considering how they are actually applied and used, it just isn’t true. The standards are now enforced based strictly on the ability to show that the use of the product as instructed, and as consumers would most likely follow those instructions (and even if the average person would be more likely to not follow any written instructions) etc etc. And if this would definitely have the effect of SPF protection as claimed.

At first I was annoyed that all of a sudden, cosmetic products all seemed to have stopped including any sun protection. But they actually just stoped claiming to.
Was it because the testing and certification requirements were too arduous? Or because if they were being honest, the protection was never really provided by those products in the first place?
I expect it is almost always the latter – and that really WAS dangerous for peole who live at the epicentre of skin cancer.

But I am glad it has changed now so that when I buy sunscreen products down here, I know they’ll be able to save my skin.

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By: Michelle https://labmuffin.com/100-mineral-sunscreens-using-unregulated-chemical-filters/#comment-242066 Fri, 21 Oct 2022 05:08:21 +0000 https://labmuffin.com/?p=12552#comment-242066 In reply to Cosmetic Scientist.

Thank you! I’m not sure what you mean with the definition though – are you saying it’s lawful for companies to be using these UV-absorbing boosters at similar concentrations to approved filters?

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